Steward Spotlight: Twisted Oak Farm & Woolen Mill

written by Phoebe Eisenbeis

Twisted Oak Farm & Woolen Mill

STEWARD NAME

Cerissa & Sean Stockton

BREEDS

Shetland and Icelandic Sheep

INSTAGRAM

@twistedoakfarmstead

How did you get into farming and shepherding, what was your path to this moment now? 

My path started when I started crocheting again 10 years ago. During that time I was making all sorts of hats and scarves that I would sell in my booth at the New Hope Farmers Market. When the pandemic hit, just like many people looking for a creative output, I took a beginning knitting class through Amazing Threads in Maple Grove, MN.

After learning how to knit, my husband and I started looking again for a property outside of the Twin Cities. While exploring paths to take after purchasing our property, we started to explore the idea of dual purpose animals and sheep came to the fore front of that conversation. I figured if we were going to get into sheep, then perhaps I should learn more about wool and how it is processed. Mary at Anoka Fiber had me hooked on spinning and Theresa at Get Bentz was our gateway to becoming a Shepard.

Why did you get involved with Three Rivers Fibershed? And can you talk a little about how you align with the mission and goals of the Fibershed? 

Purchasing our property, we knew that we wanted to farm in a sustainable manner.  We started researching and ended up on the Three Rivers Fibershed website.  It was an amazing feeling to find such a community that also wanted a sustainable future for the textile industry.  Our goals here on the property are to rebuild our soil health and utilize our animals to their fullest potential.

Can you share about the animals you are raising on your land? And anything unique or exciting about them?

During the summer months, our sheep move throughout four pastures.  We love our four-legged lawn mowers and once a month they are rotated in between our garden plots to keep the grass at a manageable level.  We over winter our animals on pasture so we do not have bedding with manure to use in the garden, but their fertilization during grazing is a great addition to the soil that has been used over the years for heavy grazing and haying purposes.  Not only do we raise Shetland and Icelandic sheep, but we own cows, chickens and a small pack of work dogs.  We also run a small wool mill that was opened in Spring of 2022.  We can process fiber up to the roving state for fiber farmers and artists.  The mill has been an amazing opportunity to open here on the property.

What is one of your favorite parts about being a shepherd, working with animals and the land? 

The life cycle.  Watching the lambs start their life on this property, graze the land which nurtures their body and the final stage of nurturing our bodies and the families of customers that choose to support our farm.  Not all Shepards who raise animals choose this outcome for their animals, but in the end, we are fortunate enough to be here everyday to care for the animals and in return they care for us.

Anything else you’d like to share? 

We host once a month gatherings in the summer months here on the property for people to come and share recent projects they are working on, sit and enjoy the company of others and our sheep.  We also offer classes throughout the year.  Our store front is open Friday, Saturday and Sunday during the summer and the public is also welcomed to visit during the winter via appointment.  Our mill is available for custom processing.  You can find us at the Spooner Farmers Market and Perlick Distillery during the market season.

Steward Spotlight: Nash Lake Fiber Farm

written by Phoebe Eisenbeis

Nash Lake Fiber Farm

STEWARD NAME

Amy Hatlevig

BREEDS

Romney and Southdown Sheep

INSTAGRAM

@ruby_stiches

How did you get into farming and shepherding, what was your path to this moment now? 

I grew up in Lakeville and I’ve always loved animals and I always knew I wanted to do something in my life with animals or kids. I ended up getting a degree in teaching so I was a teacher for many years, an elementary school teacher and a special ed teacher. Then my husband’s job took us abroad and we lived in Switzerland for four years. Upon moving back we were looking for a small piece of land, I wanted country living and my husband wanted lake shore living and we actually found a piece of property that has both. It’s about 20 acres with part of it on a small private lake. 

As far as sheep, I’ve always, always loved doing things with my hands, I’ve been very creative for as long as I can remember. My dad’s a woodworker and my mom’s a sewer. I stumbled across a yarn shop in Prior Lake where I took many classes learning how to knit. I loved working with the wool. When I visited Patti Dougherty’s farm, Holly Ridge Farm I realized how amazing it would be to make things with wool from my very own sheep and so that was my dream. And I thought this is what I can do with my farm property. 

We built a barn in 2020 which has room for a small flock of sheep and I also use that space to host different events and activities. I do a lot of events at my property; I’ve always loved gathering with others, it’s always been so inspiring and relaxing to me. 

Why did you get involved with Three Rivers Fibershed? And can you talk a little about how you align with the mission and goals of the Fibershed? 

Three Rivers Fibershed was huge for me. They provided me with so many resources as far as how to care for the sheep and care for the land. And then I enjoy the community aspect, getting to know and talk with other shepherds and farmers. And then one way that I give back is by sharing my space for events and things. I have gatherings at least once a month if not more often and always have Fibershed members present and usually if I’m doing anything that requires fiber of any sort I am able to use fiber that I can obtain from the Stewards and help promote them too. They promote me too so it’s this big community kind of like a family. We all benefit from each other. I think I’m also one of, if not the only, Steward with Romney sheep so that helps them as well.

Can you share about the animals you are raising on your land? And anything unique or exciting about them?

It’s funny but when I started looking while not knowing much, the way they looked was important to me. I wanted the quintessential fuzzy sheep! Romney is my primary breed but I have acquired a mishmash. I have 16 sheep now: 12 Romney, 2 Southdown,1 Cotswold, and 1 Cotswold-Swiss Valais mix. The Romney fiber is just luscious, it’s really lovely to spin and it makes beautiful yarn to knit with. They come in a variety of colors, I’ve got half white or cream and half that range in shades of grays. I have my guardian llama, Sarge, he’s great. I also have 3 Angora bunnies. 

What is one of your favorite parts about being a shepherd, working with animals and the land? 

I really enjoy the time outside and the time with the sheep and the land. There’s so much potential, there’s so much you can do with a little bit. Plus, I think you’re doing good things for the earth which is also really important to me. There are endless opportunities with wool and what you can do with it. The other part is getting to know people, the shepherds, and the community of fiber artists out there who are using our products in the Fibershed to make the most amazing things. It’s super exciting and people in the fiber community tend to be really gracious, creative, gentle spirits and I find it really inspirational to get to know and spend time with people like that. It really fills my bucket. 

I love having people come out to my farm and meet the sheep. The fact that they can know them by name or know individual animals is really neat. It grounds everybody and forms a connection to their art when they get to see where the things they are creating come from.

Anything else you’d like to share? 

The first Sunday of every month we host an open event we call it Sunday Funday! People come with their fiber project they’re working on and we teach each other things and get inspired even though there is no formal class going on. 

A Winter Holiday Market will be held at Nash Lake Fiber Farm, hosted by Nash Lake Fiber Farm and Badgerface Fiber on Saturday, December 2 from 12-4pm.  There will be 12 vendors, including several Three Rivers Fibershed members, selling yarn, roving, handmade items, pottery, cards, antiques and vintage items and more! 

Give to the Max Day!

Give to the Max Day
November 16th!

2022 Farm & Fiber Tour @ Curlee Acres
photo by Connor Nelson

Your support this Give to the Max Day will help us continue to build
an inclusive soil-to-soil textile community!

Three Rivers Fibershed relies on our small but mighty board of directors and an expanding network of volunteers and contractors. We are investing in communications and social media to raise awareness of the talented people who create local fiber and textiles and to welcome new community members. We are also exploring a fiber assistance program for individuals to purchase quality yarns, natural dyestuffs, and spinning fibers from our agricultural stewards and tools, such as spindles for spinning yarn and knitting needles. Please join us! 

We are excited to be on this journey to sustainable fiber systems with you! If you have any questions, feel free to email us at hello@threeriversfibershed.org

Steward Spotlight: Orchard Acres Textiles

written by Phoebe Eisenbeis

Orchard Acres Textiles

STEWARD NAME

Rebecca Diwan

BREEDS

Teeswater sheep and Cashmere goats

INSTAGRAM

@orchardacrestextiles

How did you get into farming and shepherding, what was your path to this moment now? 

Growing up, everybody did crochet - making and creating was always part of our lives, quilting and all kinds of things. I learned tatting when I was little. When we were living in Portland I wanted to buy my grandmother some yarn and the people were knitting there and I thought “I can do this!” I taught myself how to knit, that was nineteen years ago. I love it. I love everything about it. When we moved here (Rochester, MN) we were able to purchase some property that had some land and a barn and pastures, it’s not a lot of land it’s 5 acres. It was during COVID and all my kids were home, we had just moved here so we knew no one and I started researching and having all this fiber delivered to my house from different sheep breeds and I fell in love with the Teeswater sheep. I did research and we ended up getting our animals from all over the U.S. so we could continue breeding them and increasing their numbers. 


Why did you get involved with Three Rivers Fibershed? And can you talk a little about how you align with the mission and goals of the Fibershed? 

I felt connected to the idea of the fibershed even before I had sheep. I was really into the Fibershed in California and I thought that was so interesting. It was about the beginning of the Three Rivers Fibershed when we moved here and that was one thing that I wanted to be a part of from the beginning. I wanted to learn how to spin yarn and Teresa Bentz was hosting an event before she had her mill even, I connected with all these Fibershed people. Even though everyone in the Fibershed lives so far away, I’m not used to everyone living so far away, I feel like they’re all friends and it feels like we’re all in the same town with the way the zoom calls are or the festivals we go to.

With our land, no one had taken care of the pastures so we had a local organization assess our property to see what we could do to bring back some of the native plants and feed the animals well off of the land. Since the drought that has gone out the window though and we’re feeding them hay. As far as the Fibershed, I feel like ever since I got involved I’m more into where your wool comes from, how something is made, it really makes you think about all the waste. 

What are some highlights for you as a fiber farmer? Do you have a favorite aspect? 

I just love the animals. I feel like everytime I go down there, there is a new baby of some sort (not the sheep, the sheep we have under control). Yesterday we had 6 baby chicks born. It’s a bit crazy and can be a bit overwhelming. My favorite time of year is when it is -20 outside, I love Minnesota winters and I love going out there when it’s just frigid. That’s my favorite part, taking care of them in the winter. We also have two guardian dogs, Samson and Luna and they’re wonderful. I feel like this was always what I was supposed to be doing I guess. 

What is something unique and exciting about your breed of fiber animal?

When the yarn came in the mail I was very excited about it, I liked the look of it, the sheen, the feel, and the long locks, and the uniqueness of the sheep. They can live for a long time and breed for a long time. They’re also really good moms. 

How do you process the wool? 

We had a sheep shearing party in March, 9 fleeces, I skirted them, washed them, and dyed some of the locks of wook and then took them up to Theresa mill to make into roving and then yarn.  It was very exciting, I learned so much about wool and the process from this.  The kids asked why our house always smelled of wet wool!  I enjoyed the whole process, how to skirt, how not to felt the locks of wool, and how to apply natural color to the fleece.  I am very much looking forward to fall shearing!

Are there any crafting projects you’re working on right now that you’re excited about as we head into fall/winter? 

My current project is the Sheep to Shawl project, using our wool mixed with wool from other Fibershed farms, I love that this is my first project with my wool and other local longwool sheep. I am also enjoying natural dyeing and all the aspects of that! Overdyeing, and using many different natural dyes, from our farm acorns and black walnuts, local onion skins. Onion skins give the most amazing color. I also fell in love with Sumac, Indigo (my heaven would smell of an Indigo vat! i love the smell), and marigolds! You can do so much with natural dyes and wool! You are living your art, taking care of the animals, finding color on your farm, and working hard to process it into something that will keep you warm and all of it was done by your own hands.

Steward Spotlight: Priory Farms

written by Phoebe Eisenbeis

STEWARD NAME

Beth Ivankovic

SHEEP BREED

Cotswold

INSTAGRAM

@Prioryfarmscotswolds

How did you get into farming and herding? What was your journey to this moment now?

In 2017, the 40 acres next to our rural home became available for purchase. My husband and I felt that purchasing this land would help protect our local watershed. We were both born and raised in cities, we really had no idea what we could do with the land and started asking everyone we could find a lot of questions. Every farmer we met said the following, “It’s really good grazing land, you should get some cows.” I thought cows seemed a bit big!

Goats and sheep were the next suggestions for our land. Their sizes seemed more manageable and they would still meet our environmental goals of protecting the watershed. Sheep on pasture would help improve the pasture and soil and eat down all of the invasives growing on the land. I took a weekend “Introduction to shepherding class” to see what was involved with raising sheep put on by a member of the Fibershed. Through the shepherding class I learned about the Fibershed, the “soil to soil”concept, and from there attended a few other group learning events. These events were filled with wonderful shepherds and after hearing their stories, I started looking for a sheep breed.

We bought our first four Cotswold sheep in 2018. My husband and I made a pact that we would check in with each other every six months to see how we were feeling about livestock just to make sure we both like it and we love it!

And then there is the fiber end of sheep, I hadn’t thought about that when we first bought the ewes. I’ve always been crafty and I’ve loved learning about the whole process of making yarn from growing it to washing, carding, dyeing, and then weaving it. It's really been a fun journey from start to finish.

Why or how did you choose your specific fiber animal and what is something unique about them?

We raise Cotswold sheep. At the time we bought them, I wasn’t even thinking about fiber. I kept coming back to pictures of their adorable lambs. We were focused on finding a sheep that would be hardy enough for our set up. They needed to be outside 24/7 and do well eating lower quality grasses; at the time our pastures weren’t very good. The Cotswolds are just hardy, lovely sheep. They are such good mothers and easy lambers. Over the centuries they have been called gentle giants, the ewes can run anywhere from 170-200lbs and the rams are about 250lbs or more. They all have sweet personalities which I really love about this breed.

They are also really versatile, having both great wool and a mild meat. The Cotswolds have been used as the base for many upbreeding programs for different sheep breeds such as the Valais and Teeswater sheep. Cotswolds have a fun history in both the UK and the US. Their long wool is lovely to spin, it’s super strong, good for natural dying and has a beautiful luster to it. And the lambs are super cute, there’s nothing cuter than a Cotswold lamb although I know some shepherds in the Fibershed might not agree with me on this…

How do you align with the Fibershed?

I love the soil to soil concept of the Fibershed. It’s also so doable. The concept can be applied to more than where fiber comes from, such as our food supplies and our watersheds. It all builds on each other.

If everyone took more time to think about where the fibers they wear come from or the animals or plants that grow the fibers, where those fibers are being produced, how they are being made into clothing, this world would be in a much better place. That is the part that really spoke to me. We’re just caretakers of this earth. Whatever we can do, whether it’s what we wear or what we put in our bodies, how those things are grown and raised is really important.

What does a typical day at your farm look like?

Seasonally it changes but every day involves taking care of our sheep. In the summer, we rotationally graze our sheep which means I’m moving them to a different pasture about every 3 days. We do this for plant health and animal health but also to help with parasite issues.

Rotational grazing is one really good way to break the parasite cycle and keep healthy sheep without the use of medications. Resistance to anti-parasitic medications is happening across the country. Anything we can do to decrease the use of medications in our animals will really help keep these medications around for when we really need them.

Every year we are figuring out how to best manage our flock as it grows. This summer we are installing internal fences to make moves for rotational grazing go faster. We also just bought a manure spreader which I never thought I’d be so excited about! We also lambed a month earlier this year than previous years. That time change led to many new changes on the farm. We are always learning!

What is your favorite part of doing this work?

My favorite time of year is lambing. There’s nothing better than watching a ewe give birth to one lamb and while she’s cleaning it off, she’s having another. When she’s cleaning off the second one, she’s nudging the first to nurse. It's a miracle every time I see it.

On the wool end of things there’s so much to learn and try. I love growing plants and using them as natural dyes. As a pharmacist I always had to be precise and in the fiber world you can be precise but you can also just have fun. You can put leaves in a glass jar with some water and see what color comes up!You can get into all the chemistry, which I enjoy, but you don’t have to! You can try things out and see what happens. Usually it all turns out beautiful but if you don’t like it you can overdye it. There’s just no end to the creativity and I wish I had more time to try it all.

What does processing the fiber look like for you?

I try to process one or two fleeces myself to help answer customer’s questions if they want to know how I do it. I like all the parts of it except for carding. I use our local mill which is 25 miles away, Mystic Water Fiber Mill, for roving or I take our fiber to Badgerface Fiber Mill which is south of the Twin Cities. Cotswold sheep can grow up to an inch of wool a month. Finding mills that can handle the length of our fiber to make yarn has been challenging but we are figuring it out!

Anything else you’d like to share with us?

If someone is thinking about getting a few sheep, first, get some. Second, take the time to look at all of the different breeds that are out there. They all have wonderful properties and we need to save all of their genetic diversities. Find the one that speaks to you! Each of their fleece’s will have something to offer our fibershed. A spinner friend of mine has spun probably every single breed. I asked her once what was her favorite breed of sheep to spin and she replied, “I like the one I’m currently spinning the best.” If you aren’t thinking about getting sheep, just find all of their fiber and make some clothing that will last almost forever and will help our world.

Steward Spotlight: Curlee Acres

written by Phoebe Eisenbeis

Curlee Acres

STEWARD NAME

Andrea Seifert

SHEEP BREED

Shetland

WEBSITE

https://www.curleeacres.com/

INSTAGRAM

@curlee_acres

How did you get into farming and shepherding, what was your path to this moment now? 

We had young kids and I had a wild hair of “we’re in the country let’s have some sheep!” First, we had a few primarily hay-fed sheep and wanted to have lambs for the kids to experience. I don’t know what the point was really! When the kids grew up and went away to school I thought this little venture was done…but we had a pregnant sheep and I thought “we can’t end it now!”

And around that time I realized I wanted wool sheep, which was this crazy idea that had been sitting there brewing and all of a sudden just dawned on me. So then we went down the road of really refining what kind of wool we had. And from there we just kept expanding. Then we got involved with the Fibershed and continued a journey of learning about the regenerative agriculture aspect of sheep which is now something that people are very aware of, such as the carbon sequestering that grazing animals can do. But that was new information for me when I got going with the pasture about 5 years ago. Also wool is just in the news and there is a turning tide on natural fibers and small ruminants. 

What excites you about this work? 

I think it’s fun to be a part of something that is making some small impact, helping push the big boulder that is starting to get moving. I think wool is gonna save the world, I think sheep are gonna save the world. 

Also I just really like my breed of sheep. I shifted from more of the traditional dual coated Shetland sheep to more of the single coated sheep for their fine fleece just because it’s so nice to have next to skin soft wool. But what I love, and with all Shetland sheep, is all their colors and little spots. So that drives my interest. 

Curlee Acres Farm & Fiber Tour 2022
Photo by Connor Nelson

What does a typical day at the farm look like? 

There are easy days and hard days. On an easy day it’s getting them their hay and water. The mamas do get some grain now just after lambing. The harder days could involve setting up all the temporary fencing and getting them out to the pasture. Shearing day is a lot of work including getting all of their hooves trimmed up. And then there is dealing with all the fleece after shearing! 

I take each of the fleeces to my wool studio and skirt each of them. Since they are smaller wool sheep you can’t just skirt it away, you really have to take your time with it because there is just not that much to their fleeces, whereas if they were bigger sheep or all the same color you can discard more that you don’t want or need. It’s kind of a chore because I need every little half-ounce that I can get. All the mills have different ways of doing things too, so even that is something to learn about; who handles your wool the best, what are the requirements for sending them wool, etc. It’s a part of the process that you don’t have total control over either.

Why did you get involved with Three Rivers Fibershed? And can you talk a little about how you align with the mission and goals of the Fibershed? 

I align most with the local fiber production, especially wool. I definitely agree with all that the Fibershed does with their soil to soil concept and starting with practices that are really good for the earth. Also being part of shifting our whole ideas around what we need in our textile industry and how much we produce. I like to think about how we can reduce general plastic use and I see that as an aspect of the Fibershed as well. In so many cases I think about how wool could do what plastic does. 

Some of my prototypes for different wool products are: 

  • yogurt sack for wrapping around a jar of homemade yogurt 

  • woven yoga mat rug 

  • wool basket or bag in place of all of our plastic or reusable bags 

Curlee Acres Farm & Fiber Tour 2022
Photo by Connor Nelson

What is something unique and exciting about your breed of fiber animal?

[Shetland Sheep] are a very hardy breed, the many colors, the fine fleece, they are smaller and easier to handle. Also our claim to fame is that two of our lambs are in a petting zoo, so we’ve got some really sweet and affectionate sheep. Two of my best mamas are a Shetland cross but they’ve just got the nicest, friendliest demeanor so I keep them for that reason. Their lambs also become very friendly, I think they learn it from their moms.

Shearing Day - Local Fiber Beginnings

Local wool begins with sheep and the land and shepherds that care for them. But to go from sheep to fiber to finished textiles, shearing must occur.

Read our recent photo article, Shearing Day, to learn more about the process of shearing as it occurred on two TRF steward farms in the Winter/Spring of 2023 and discover the community, skill, and care for animals that is involved in every step along the way.

“From sheep to sweater: Where does wool come from?”

Join Minnesota Farmers Union members from Rice and Goodhue counties for an informational event, “From sheep to sweater: Where does wool come from?”

May 20th, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Nash Lake Fiber Farm
25545 Fairlawn Ave.
Webster, MN 55088

“From sheep to sweater: Where does wool come from?” will take visitors on a journey from shearing the sheep to skirting the fleece, learning about the wool, processing fiber into yarn, and knitting the yarn into a finished product.

  • Marcus Irrthum, a Goodhue County sheep shearer, will be shearing sheep and talking about the craft and the importance of shearing for the health of the animals.

  • Three Rivers Fibershed will be on hand with their sourcebook to talk about local wool, different wool types, and information on the local fiber economy.

  • Theresa Bentz from Get Bentz Farm and Fiber Processing Mill will share a presentation about wool processing and her experiences processing fiber.

If you are interested in local wool and textiles, and looking for a great opportunity to spend a day at the farm, make sure to mark your calendars for this super fun event. It will be a ‘wooly’ good time!


Maker Applications Open for From Sheep to Shawl

Calling all artists, crafters, and designers!

Apply to be a From Sheep to Shawl Maker!

In 2023 Three Rivers Fibershed is focusing programming around the concept of From Sheep to Shawl. The programming aims to engage community members in exploring the lifecycle of textiles by creating a shawl made entirely with local fiber, local natural dyes, and local labor.

To enhance community engagement in the programming, TRF is looking for 3 Makers who will commit to making a shawl entirely with local fiber, dyes, and labor in 2023; documenting their project along the way; and sharing it with the wider TRF community.

Makers will be compensated with a $250 stipend. Makers must provide their own supplies, but mutual aid funding is available to assist with the purchase of local fiber or dye products for the project.

Makers will commit to:

  • Making a shawl completely from local fiber, local dyes, & local labor by October 2023. Fiber and natural dyes must be sourced from TRF Stewards.

  • Documenting the process through photos and video & sharing these on individual social media accounts, tagging Three Rivers Fibershed.

  • Completing a set of survey questions each season (June, August, October) to answer brief questions about how the process is going & provide a few photos.

  • Attend at least one virtual or in-person event to speak about their project

  • Promote From Sheep to Shawl programming throughout the year within their community.

TRF will review all applications and select Makers with the aim of diversity based on shawl type, experience level, techniques used (spinning, natural dyeing, weaving, knitting, crochet, etc.), and location within TRF's strategic geography. We hope the Makers will, as a group, represent a diverse range of skills, techniques, and experience.

Application will remain open through May 17th.
Selected Makers will be notified via email by May 31st.

Wool Growers Cooperative Closure & the Impact on our Fibershed

By: Theresa Bentz, Get Bentz Farm & Badgerface Fiber Mill

There is just no money in wool anymore, might as well sell off the flock and get hair sheep.

It’s not even worth taking to the broker, the burlap sack and the price of gas has more value than the wool.
— Anonymous shearer during 2022 wool shearing in South East MN

The American wool industry has been on a slow decline since the 1990’s when polar fleece and synthetic outerwear became ultra popular. It hit an all time low during the COVID-19 pandemic.  Shepherds could expect pennies to the pound for their fleece, often costing more to shear the animal than the value of the fleece. Many shepherds in the tri-state area (MN, WI, IA) focus their flocks and production on lamb meat, which has increased in value thanks to immigrant communities who eat more lamb than the typical American household. This increased market for lamb meat has drawn the focus away from wool production, fine fleece, or VM minimal fleece. The focus is instead on raising large lambs that grow fast and bring a good price on the larger market. But the wool is not worthless.

In 2021 I went out on a limb and purchased a cottage industry mill to process my own fiber and the fiber of others in the area. I quickly realized that I needed to find more fleece, and lots of it, to keep up with demand for roving and rug yarn (at the time I was not yet making yarn).  I connected with my shearer friends who helped me source bales of wool and I would pay them 2x what the market value for the wool, which made everyone quite happy.  A bale of wool is a large burlap sack stuffed with compressed wool that weighs about 250-500 lbs.  I found that if I went to the shearing I could quickly skirt the wool (remove debris and damaged wool from the fleece) before it made it into the bale. This way, I would save myself time later by picking out the specific fleeces I wanted. This was also a great way to get to know my local fiber community, spend time outside, chat with shearers and shepherds, and get real dirty.  

In the late part of 2022, just as I was getting ready to think about what types of wool I wanted to use for my mill, I heard rumors of Mid-State Wool Growers Coop closing.  Shearers were concerned that they would have a harder time selling the wool after shearing, and that the shepherds would be hit hard.  I wondered why the market was falling apart, and how we can show the value of all wool types, not just the next-to-skin fine fiber that most consumers fixate on. I also wondered what I could do with my limited resources.  

“It’s got to be able to go against the skin,” Rowe said, for farmers to get a good and fair price for their wool. “The comfort factor with coarse wool is nowhere near what is deemed acceptable, or even excellent.” (Wagoner, 202

Why is fine wool the only wool that has value on the larger market?  Yes, fine wool like Rambouillet and Merino is absolutely lovely. It is soft and buttery, and yes, it lacks the itch factor. But do we need it for everything?  How many of us wear a shirt under our woolen sweaters?  And why do we need super soft wool on our feet, which are designed to endure rough terrain and textures? And what about the washability of wool? Is there a wool type that can be washed and won’t shrink in the washer that could replace superwash (a wool type that is treated to be resistant to felting, the production of which uses harsh chemicals and large quantities of water)?  

These were all questions I had when hearing about the closure of the cooperative. Meeting with shepherds in my area, I put my focus into answering them. 

Fine wool is the only wool on the market that has any value because the value is placed in consumer demand - driven largely by marketing. We are told that wool is itchy, that it is hard to wash and will shrink. As a result, consumers demand a soft, washable wool and the market creates superwash merino to meet that demand. Perhaps our focus should be in educating consumers about the environmental impact of superwash and about qualities of other types of wool to help dispel the myths we have been told.  

People are always amazed when I tell them that I can wash my down wool socks or mittens in the washer on the regular cycle because the structure of the fiber is resistant to felting. Or that my hat made of Cheviot wool never felts, doesn’t itch or pill, and holds the stitch definition perfectly.  As a shepherd, I love my Suffolk sweater and Cheviot mitts because I can wash them on hot after they become soiled, and the hay doesn’t stick to them!  If more consumers knew that the wool the current market deems as having absolutely no value can be washed over and over again, do you think they would want it and thus give it value?  I believe so.  

As a fibershed I believe the closure of the cooperative gives us an opportunity to advocate and educate the public about all the different types of fiber in our communities and their value.  Not every shepherd will want to market their fiber item, and that is okay. The niche market, where many small shepherds find their market for their wool, isn’t sustainable.  Niche markets come and go with the changing seasons. What is hot today might be gone tomorrow. We need security. 

With this closure we shouldn’t put the weight of this on the shoulders of the shepherds, but rather increase education and advocacy about all wool and fiber types and how the market has failed not only the consumer but also the producer. Because at the end of the day, if wool has no value in the larger market how can we ever expect it to have a value in the niche market?  

Learn more about Get Bentz Farm & Badgerface Fiber Mill at https://www.getbentzfarm.com/ 

To learn about breeds and fiber types available within the Three Rivers Fibershed, check out the Regional Fiber Sourcebook and learn more about the Stewards creating local fiber with the Steward Directory.